DifficultyRating: ? / 10
|Diodes||10, 40 LEDs|
1 40 Pin DIP Socket
1 x 8 Pin DIP Socket
1 x Rotary Encoder
2 x 16 Position Rotary Switches
2 x Jumpers
2 x 'straps'
23 x Tact Switches
40 x Standoffs
1 x 16MHz Ceramic Resonator |
This section is not particularly difficult, but it is long. There are a lot of resistors, leds and switches. Also, be sure to put your eprom and MicroProcessor in after you finish soldering. Don't forget about the 2 Jumpers J1 and J2. They are not the wires to staple the rotary switches.
Take some time to figure out in which order you are going to want to solder this section in. It might be a good idea to start with the resistors, LEDs, and then the switches. The idea is to not melt the switches. Some of the resistors get pretty tight in here, so make sure you don't have any shorts.
The LEDs have polarity. You might have some problems putting the LEDs through the standoffs. If this is the case, just use something to poke thorough the holes. The standoffs are used to raise the LEDs higher, and keep them in place. When stuffing the LEDs, it is a good idea to kink the leads while pressing down firmly on the rounded part of the LED.
If you look closely, one side of the LED is flat (this is also the side with shorter leg and the side that has the triangular 'cup'). Make sure the negative side inserted in the hole closest to the flat side of the LED graphic on the board.
One idea you can pinch from the forums (thanks, Numbernone) to make stuffing the LEDs less of a pain is to use the front panel as a template for holding it all together. Stuff all the LEDs in place, and slip the front panel over them. Use a bit of decorator's tape to temporarily strap the circuit board to the front panel, flip it over and start soldering.
You are going to want to take your time with the 5 pin rotary switches. 'staple' them in pace with wire first, and make sure they are centered on the silkscreen before soldering them in. If you don't you are going to have a hard time putting the faceplate on later when you Finish Off
The tact switches do not have any polarity, despite the fact that there are pinouts on the silkscreen. They can be soldered in any way you like, but make sure that they are soldered in flush with the board or you will have problems with mounting the faceplate.
equaliser says… Rather obvious this, but I got my Q5 transistor in the wrong way round. This meant that the mode switch had no effect, and all the black keys didn't work.
|Schematic||Power Supply||Voltage Controlled Oscillator||Voltage Controlled Filter||Envelope Generator||Voltage Controlled Amplifier||Headphone And Mixer||Digital Sequencer||Midi, USB and Sync|
|Fabrication||Building the Ps||Building the Vco||Building the Vcf||Building the Envelope||Building the Vca||Building the Headphone And Mixer||Building the Sequencer||Building the Midi and Sync||Finishing It Off|
|Testing||Testing the Ps||Testing the Vco||Testing the Vcf||Testing the Envelope||Testing the Vca||Testing the Headphone And Mixer||Testing the Sequencer||Testing the Midi and Sync|
|Mods||Ps Mods||Vco Mods||Vcf Mods||Envelope Mods||Vca Mods||Headphone And Mixer Mods||Sequencer Mods||Midi And Sync Mods||Finishing Mods|