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--- tutorials:products:pixel12mm:index.html [2012/01/26 22:26]
pburgess
+++ tutorials:products:pixel12mm:index.html [2016/01/28 18:05] (current)
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-==== LED full color (RGB) Pixels!  ====
+==== LED full color (RGB) Pixels! ====
-RGB Pixels are digitally-controllable lights you can set to any color, or animate. Each pixel contains an RGB LED and a controller chip molded into a 'dot' of silicone, with flanges so they can be pushed into holes in a thin sheet material. The dots are waterproof and rugged — they're typically used to make outdoor signs.
+RGB Pixels are digitally-controllable lights you can set to any color, or animate. Each pixel contains an RGB LED and a controller chip molded into a 'dot' of silicone, with flanges so they can be pushed into holes in thin sheet material. The dots are waterproof and rugged — they're typically used to make outdoor signs.
-**Basic stats** \\
+**Basic stats**
   * 12mm diameter round waterproof pixels
-  * Approximately 4 inches (100mm) apart on 4-pin strand
+  * Comes in both "Bullet" (thin) shape and "Square" (flat) shapes
+  * Approximately 3 inches (80mm) apart on 4-pin strand
+  * 5 Volts DC, 60 milliamps max per pixel (all LEDs on, full white)
   * WS2801 LED driver chip provides 24-bit color: [[http://www.adafruit.com/datasheets/WS2801.pdf|Datasheet]]
-  * 5 Volts DC, 60 milliamps peak per pixel (all LEDs on, full white)
+  * 2-pin SPI-like protocol — easy for Arduino and other microcontrollers
-  * 2-pin SPI-like protocol
-[[http://www.adafruit.com/products/322|You can pick up RGB pixels in strands of 25 from the Adafruit shop]].
+[[http://www.adafruit.com/category/37_87|You can pick up RGB pixels in strands of 25 from the Adafruit shop]].
 Here's a video showing some 12mm pixels running a test pattern:
@@ Line 17: / Line 18: @@
 {{flickrvid>5262163094}}
-==== 12mm Pixels  ====
+==== Project Ideas ====
-[[http://www.ladyada.net/images/rgbpixels/12mmledpixel.jpg|{{http://www.ladyada.net/images/rgbpixels/12mmledpixel_t.jpg?nolink&500x333|}}]]
-Our 12mm pixels use an 8mm diffused RGB LED — diffused pixels mix colors nicer. At 5 Volts, they draw a maximum of 60 mA per pixel: 20mA each for red, green and blue.
-The LED pixels are spaced along strands of ribbon cable, with about 4 inches or 100mm between pixels. If additional distance is needed you can cut the ribbon cable and solder 4 wires to extend the gap to the desired length.
-[[http://www.ladyada.net/images/rgbpixels/12mmledpixelclose.jpg|{{  http://www.ladyada.net/images/rgbpixels/12mmledpixelclose_t.jpg?nolink&500x333|}}]]
-==== Ideas  ====
 These pixels could be used for stuff like…
-LED coffee tables (this one is 'hand made' but you could skip the wiring/drivers part)
+LED coffee tables (this one is 'hand made' but you could skip the wiring/drivers part and just use a long strand of our LED pixels now)
 {{youtube>Tj1j1-dIX6k}}
-A 'strand' of LEDs like a digital LED strip but easier to control!
+A trippy 'light bar':
 {{vimeo>16297109}}
-A 'ball' of LEDs:
+Signs or displays:
-{{vimeo>16303734}}
+{{youtube>EkrZbBEqcjo}}
-A sign or display:
+A ball of LEDs:
-{{youtube>EkrZbBEqcjo}}
+{{vimeo>16303734}}
-A matrix or video wall can also be created:
+A matrix or video wall can also be created, as with our [[https://www.adafruit.com/products/611|Adavision kit]]:
 {{vimeo>33417250}}
-==== Driver chip  ====
+==== Overview ====
-Every pixel contains a small microchip within the silicone dot. The WS2801 LED driver chip is custom designed for this purpose. These chips are very simple to communicate with — all they do is shift color data in from one pin and out another. To issue data from a microcontroller, one "shifts out" 24 bits of color information — the first data out corresponds to the pixel closest to the microcontroller. To write data to 10 LEDs, you would issue 240 bits (10 * 24). Following the data, a 500 microsecond pause will "latch" the data and present the new LED colors.
+Our 12mm pixels use an 8mm diffused RGB LED — diffused pixels mix colors nicer. At 5 Volts, they draw a maximum of 60 mA per pixel: 20mA each for red, green and blue.
+{{ :tutorials:products:pixel12mm:12mmpixels.jpg?nolink& |}}
+{{ :tutorials:products:pixel12mm:id738rainbow_lrg.jpg?500 |}}
+The LED pixels are spaced along a strand of ribbon cable, with about 3 inches or 80mm between pixels. If additional distance is needed you can cut the ribbon cable and solder 4 wires to extend the gap to the desired length.
+{{ :tutorials:products:pixel12mm:12mmwires.jpg?nolink& |}}
-==== Powering 12mm pixels  ====
+==== Powering 12mm Pixels ====
 An important part of running a lot of LEDs is to keep track of power usage. Individual LEDs don't get very hot or use tons of power, but they add up fast!
-Each single 12mm RGB LED pixel can draw up to 60mA from a 5V supply. That means a strand of 25 can use up to 1.5 A. Of course this is assuming all the LEDs are on. If you keep most of the LEDs off (by color swirling or patterns) the power usage can be 1/3 this or less.
+Each single 12mm RGB LED pixel can draw up to 60mA from a 5V supply. That means a strand of 25 can use up to 1.5 Amps. Of course this is assuming all the LEDs are on. If you keep most of the LEDs off (by color swirling or patterns) the power usage can be 1/3 this or less.
 We suggest a nice switching supply for driving LED pixels: either a [[http://www.adafruit.com/products/276|5 Volt 2 Amp supply]] for a strand or two, or our [[http://www.adafruit.com/products/658|5 Volt 10 Amp supply]] for larger installations. For really massive projects, a [[http://www.instructables.com/pages/search/search.jsp?ie=ISO-8859-1&q=ATX|slightly modified ATX computer power supply]] can provide 30 Amps to power upwards of 500 pixels!
-As shown below, connect ground to both your power supply and microcontroller. Then connect the 5V pin to the power supply. A large capacitor (1000uF or so) is a nice addition to keep ripple down.
+**IMPORTANT: Never, //never// connect more than 5 Volts to the pixels! This will permanently damage them!**
-==== Wiring  ====
+As shown later, connect ground to both your power supply and microcontroller. Then connect the 5V pin to the power supply. A large capacitor (1000uF or so) between 5V and ground is a nice addition to keep ripple down.
+==== Driver Chip ====
+Each pixel contains a small microchip within the silicone dot. The WS2801 LED driver chip is custom designed for this purpose. These chips are very simple to communicate with — all they do is shift color data in from one pin and out another. To issue data from a microcontroller such as an Arduino, one "shifts out" 24 bits of color information — the first data out corresponds to the pixel closest to the microcontroller. To write data to 10 LEDs, you would issue 240 bits (10 * 24). Following the data, a 500 microsecond pause will "latch" the data and show the new LED colors.
+<class notewarning>
-The nice thing about these pixels is that they are digitally controlled. That is, even though there are only two data lines (clock/data inputs), you can put as many pixels as you'd like in a row and each one is controllable.
+**PLEASE NOTE: THE LED DRIVER CHIP AND WIRE COLORS HAVE CHANGED FROM EARLIER BATCHES OF THESE PIXELS. ANYTHING PURCHASED AFTER AUGUST 2011 SHOULD MATCH THE FOLLOWING DECRIPTION. We initially sold LEDs in this form factor using the LPD6803 driver chip (BEFORE August 2011). If you are using those pixels, [[http://www.ladyada.net/products/pixel20mm/index.html|please go to the 20mm pixel tutorial]] — the wiring and code are the same, and nothing further here applies. After switching to the WS2801 chip, the first batch used different wire colors, but the order and functions are the same as described below.**
-It is important to note that even though it looks like the 4-conductor ribbon is continuous, it isn't! The ground and 5V lines are shared but the two data **input** pins go to a microcontroller and the other side has two data **output**s.
+</class>
+==== Wiring  ====
-[[http://www.ladyada.net/images/rgbpixels/20mmledpixeltop.jpg|{{  http://www.ladyada.net/images/rgbpixels/20mmledpixeltop_t.jpg?nolink&500x199  |}}]]
+The great thing about these pixels is that they're digitally controlled…that is, even though there are only two control lines (data and clock inputs), you can put as many pixels as you'd like in a single long strand, yet each one remains independently controllable.
-When connecting to a microcontroller make sure you are connecting the **input** pins to the microcontroller! Best way to tell is to look at the dots and find the arrow. In the large dots above, the arrow is in the top right corner. The inputs are on the left and the signal passes to the right. If you want to connect multiple strands together, make sure input goes to output.
+Though it looks like the 4-conductor ribbon cable is continuous, //it isn't!// The ground and 5V lines pass through from one pixel to the next, but the two data control lines are different on the input and output sides. The input side goes to the LED driver chip, which then drives its own output to the next pixel in the strand.
-Wiring is pretty easy since there are only 4 wires. The only important thing is that unless you are sure you will be using only a few of the LEDs at a time, you should not try to power the strip from the 5V on the Arduino. The Arduino is only mean to drive about 500mA of current, and as we saw earlier, a strand can take 1000mA or more if on! For that reason, we suggest powering with an external regulated 5V supply.
+When connecting these pixels to a microcontroller, make sure you're connecting to the strand's **input** pins! Best way to distinguish the correct end is to closely examine the circuit board embedded in the first pixel. If its a WHITE PCB, try looking for the "INPUT" label. If connecting multiple strands together, make sure the output of one strand goes to the input of the next.
-For **LPD6803** Pixels, use this diagram with Red going to +5, Green going to digital 3, Yellow going to digital 2 and Blue going to Ground. **WS2801 wire colors will be different, see below!**
+{{ :tutorials:products:pixel12mm:12mminput.jpg?nolink& |}}
-{{  http://www.ladyada.net/images/rgbpixels/arduinowiring.gif?nolink&576x467  |}}
+If the PCB is Green, look for the black rectangular chip, this is the input
-Just make sure to 'share' the ground pin, and triple check that you have the voltage polarity right so that ground is 0V and power is 5V. For the arduino library we wrote, you can use any two pins.
+{{ :tutorials:products:pixel12mm:12mmgreenpcb.jpg?500 |}}
-=== Extra special note for WS2801 pixels ===
+If you have flat pixels, look for the embossed ARROW on the side of the pixel, connect to the end that's the 'tail' of the arrow (not the pointy head as that indicates which way the data travels down the strand'
-**PLEASE NOTE: THE WIRE COLORS SOMETIMES CHANGE FROM BATCH TO BATCH! Do not assume the wire colors are 'logical' or the same for each strand. Double check by looking at the first input pixel!**
+{{ :tutorials:products:pixel12mm:flatarrow.jpg?500 |}}
-If you have 12mm pixels you may have newer WS2801 or older LPD6803 pixels. You should check the pixel to verify what chip is inside. This is pretty easy, for the WS2801's you'll see it written on the PCB. You can also check your kit packaging.
-{{:tutorials:products:rgbledpixel:ws2801pixel.jpg?500|}}
+Wiring is pretty easy since there are only 4 wires. The only important thing is that you should not try to power the LED strand from the Arduino's 5V line, unless you'll be using only a few LEDs at a time. The Arduino is only meant to drive about 500mA of current, and as we saw earlier, a fully-lit strand can require 1000mA or more! This is why we suggest using an external 5V supply.
-Here you can see the WS2801 written on the PCB. Another really annoying thing is that like we mentioned, the wire colors for the WS2801 pixels can be 'non-intuitive'. For example the first batch of WS2801 we got had **Data** wire blue, **Clock** wire red, **Ground** wire white, and **5V** wire black. You can determine the wiring for sure by holding up the pixel as shown in that photo and noting that the wire order is Data, Clock, Ground, +5V (this is not the same as LPD6803, see the diagram above for LPD6803 wiring!) Sorry about that!
+Use this diagram with the red wire going to +5V from the power supply, green (serial clock) to Arduino digital pin 3, yellow (serial data) to digital pin 2, and black to both the ground connection on the power supply and any available GND pin on the Arduino.
-==== Code!  ====
+{{ :tutorials:products:pixel12mm:arduinowiring.png?nolink& |}}
-The code to drive these dots is even simpler, you don't need to worry about any timers, use any two pins you'd like! You can use anything that requires timer 1 like the servo libraries.
+Our Arduino library (explained below) can use any two pins, but the examples are written to use pins 2 and 3 as above.
-[[https://github.com/adafruit/WS2801-Library|To download, visit the repository on Github.]] Click the DOWNLOADS button in the top right corner, rename the uncompressed folder WS2801. Check that the WS2801 folder contains WS2801.cpp and WS2801.h
+==== Download ====
-Place the WS2801 library folder your <arduinosketchfolder>/libraries/ folder. You may need to create the libraries subfolder if its your first library. Restart the IDE. [[http://www.ladyada.net/library/arduino/libraries.html|We also have a tutorial on library installation]]
+To download the Arduino library, [[https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-WS2801-Library|visit the repository on GitHub]].
+Click the DOWNLOAD ZIP button near the upper left, extract the archive and then rename the uncompressed folder to ''Adafruit_WS2801''. Confirm that this folder contains the files ''Adafruit_WS2801.cpp'' and ''Adafruit_WS2801.h'' and the ''examples'' folder.
-Once you've rebooted, load up the **WS2801->strandtest.pde** example sketch, we'll go through the most important parts.
+Place the Adafruit_WS2801 folder inside your Arduino ''libraries'' folder. You may need to create this folder if it does not yet exist. In Windows, this would be ''(home folder)\My Documents\Arduino\Libraries'' and for Mac or Linux is ''(home folder)/Documents/Arduino/Libraries'' [[http://www.ladyada.net/library/arduino/libraries.html|We also have a tutorial on library installation]].
-First up, you'll need to make an library object to talk to the strip. It is initialized with three variables, the number of pixels and the data/clock pin. You can change these later.
+After installing the Adafruit_WS2801 library, restart the Arduino IDE. You should now be able to access the sample code by navigating through menus in this order: File->Sketchbook->Libraries->Adafruit_WS2801->strandtest
+==== Code! ====
+Let's look through the strandtest example code. To use the library in an Arduino sketch, you'll first need to globally declare a WS2801 object to talk to the strip. It is invoked with three variables: the number of pixels and the data and clock pins:
 <code C>
+int dataPin = 2;
+int clockPin = 3;
 // Set the first variable to the NUMBER of pixels. 25 = 25 pixels in a row
-WS2801 strip = WS2801(25, dataPin, clockPin);
+Adafruit_WS2801 strip = Adafruit_WS2801(25, dataPin, clockPin);
 </code>
-Next we will set up the strip in the **setup()** procedure.
+Next, we initialize the strip in the ''setup()'' procedure:
 <code C>
 void setup() {
-  // Start up the LED counter
   strip.begin();
-  // Update the strip, to start they are all 'off'
+  // Update LED contents, to start they are all 'off'
   strip.show();
 }</code>
-**begin()** initializes the library and sets all the pixel colors to off.
+''begin()'' initializes the library, while ''show()'' refreshes the displayed colors of the LEDs. You'll need to call ''show()'' after changing any pixel colors to see this reflected in the LEDs. This way you can change the entire strip at one time (it takes the same amount of time to change one pixel as it does for an entire strip, because the full strip data must be issued regardless).
-**show()** is what updates the strand display. You'll need to call it after setting any colors to see the updates. This way you can change the entire strip at a time (it takes the same amount of time to change one pixel as it does for an entire strip because the full strip data must be shifted out at once)
+Let's look inside an example function, ''colorWipe()''. This creates a 'chase' sequence that fills the strip up with a color. It is basically a loop that increments through every pixel (which you can query with the ''numPixels()'' function) and sets the color of each (incremented with ''i'') to the value passed (''c'' — colors are expressed as a 32-bit variable type, though only the bottom 24 bits are used). The strip output is then updated with ''show()''. Finally there is some delay (otherwise this would happen instantly).
-Last, we'll look at an example function, colorWipe. This creates a 'chase' that fills the strip up with a color. It is basically a loop that increments through every pixel (which you can conveniently get by **numPixels()** ) and sets the pixel color of that pixel (incremented with **i**) to the color **c**. In this case the color is stored in a 32 bit variable but uses only the bottom 24 bits. The strip output is then updated with **show()**. Finally there is some delay (otherwise this would happen instantly)
+Below that is a helper function that converts a color from separate 8-bit red, green and blue values into a combined 24-bit value (suitable for passing to ''colorWipe()''). The brightness range is from 0 (off) to 255 (max brightness).
-Below that is a little helper that takes 8 bit red green and blue and bit-mashes them into a 24 bit color. This means that the 'max' value for each color is 255.
 <code C>
@@ Line 157: / Line 164: @@
   return c;
 }
 </code>
-For example, in the **loop()** we call colorWipe(Color(255, 0, 0), 50) which will fill the strand with only-full-red light, pausing about 50 milliseconds between pixels.
+For example, in the ''loop()'' function we call colorWipe(Color(255, 0, 0), 50) which will fill the strand with full-brightness red light, pausing about 50 milliseconds between pixels.
 <code C>
@@ Line 166: / Line 172: @@
   colorWipe(Color(0, 255, 0), 50);  // green fill
   colorWipe(Color(0, 0, 255), 50);  // blue fill
 </code>
-==== Download  ====
-=== LPD8603 library ===
-We have an Arduino library that can be fairly easily ported to any microcontroller with two digital output pins and a interrupt timer. This code is heavily based off of [[http://www.bliptronics.com|bliptronics']] original code except we library-ized it and trimmed it down.
-[[https://github.com/adafruit/LPD6803-RGB-Pixels|You can download the library from github]], [[http://www.ladyada.net/library/arduino/libraries.html|then follow our library installation procedure.]]
-**Dont forget that this library uses an interrupt on timer 1 which means the pin 9 and 10 PWMs will not 'work' for servos, please use a 'software servo' library!**
-=== WS2801 library ===
-[[https://github.com/adafruit/WS2801-Library|To download, visit the repository on Github.]] Click the DOWNLOADS button in the top right corner, rename the uncompressed folder WS2801. Check that the WS2801 folder contains WS2801.cpp and WS2801.h
-Place the WS2801 library folder your <arduinosketchfolder>/libraries/ folder. You may need to create the libraries subfolder if its your first library. Restart the IDE. [[http://www.ladyada.net/library/arduino/libraries.html|We also have a tutorial on library installation]]

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